Sunday, August 26, 2007

Burritos and Worm Tacos


As most of you know, I am a simple man. And my favorite meal is a burrito because of its efficiency. It can be eaten with a fork and knife or simply picked up with your hands. And the combinations are endless. If made correctly, it will not leak. It is the ultimate food-to-go. It can be made with beans and chile, or more complex. For example, my life generally improved when I discovered a Mexican restaurant named Gilbert's in Santa Monica, CA. It was there that I had my first pitcher of margaritas but also my first chile-relleno-burrito (a special fried egg-batter-dipped stuffed pepper wrapped in a flour tortilla). Sheer genius! It may not mean much to you, but it was matter of combining my two favorite foods in one efficient package. But the burrito is a U.S. invention. In Mexico they sell tacos, tortas, and other equally ingenious and efficient foods, but no burritos. As luck would have it, however, Mexico City (DF) is a culinary capitol. Here are some of my favorite places to eat (at least so far):

El Centro Historico
In the heart of the city, with the best views of the Zocalo (main plaza) and the Popocatepetl volcano. you will find Puro Corazon restaurant. It is across street from the Cathedral in the Arte Mexicano offices on the top floor terrace. The food is always good and features traditional ingredients. My favorite dish so far has been the octopus and cactus in garlic sauce. They also feature two of my favorite mixed drinks tramarind with Mezcal and jamaica (hibiscus flower) with Mezcal. I highly recommend this as a location to have a late lunch after a day of walking around the Zocalo and historic center.

Polanco
Polanco is Mexico City's long standing upscale neighborhood, akin to Beverly Hills. There are lots of fine restaurants but here are two notables because they represent the extremes of experience. First is the traditional Villa Maria. Great place for weekend brunches and family meals to sample many of the traditional dishes or mexico (and a good selection of Tequilas). I recently eat Tacos de Guzano de Maguey (worm tacos – a delicacy actually). You may have seen these worms in bottles of Mezcal (the famous worm!). The worms are butterfly lava that grow on the Maguey. The worms are cooked in oil and have very little flavor themselves but are a great source of protein, as are Escamoles (ant eggs), which I hope to try soon.

Fifty Friends is a hip modern Pizzeria located in the heart of Polanco's Lincoln Park (there is a statue of President Lincoln). The pizza and food is good but the ambiance and wine selection is great. People watching is also part of the allure since the restaurant is open to the street like a Paris café patio. The restaurant is packed nightly. The original spot is in the Colonia Condesa.

Santa Fe
Tierra de Vinos is said to be Mexico City's first wine bar or Enoteca. It is also my new "Zona Rosa" (that was my favorite restaurant in NYC). What I like most is that it has seating at the bar, unlike most of the city's restaurants. For solitary travelers or diners, this is a necessity. The flair is Spanish (although their recently added Angus burger has been a hit with me). If you love cheeses and wine, this is the spot for you. Plus the service is first rate. The original location is in the Colonia Roma. If you visit, tell the hostess or bartender I sent you.

La Buena Tierra: Generally I have food the food to be much healthier than in the US (street tacos don't count). But if you are a Vegan (not that there is anything wrong with it) or want something organic but tasty, you have to try La Buena Tierra. It is a chain of restaurants but I can't get enough of it. The juices, the salads, everything is good. Well, their desserts are ok. I love their Nopalitos (cactus) as an appetizer, then the al pastor fish tacos, which I drown with an agua de fresa (strawberry water) or Limoncito (lime mint water). I try and eat here once a week, especially for a weekend breakfast of chilaquiles.

Sunday, August 19, 2007

Mexico Rain


Prologue: In the mother country. Some of you already know, other will discover with surprise, that I am approaching my second month of a six month assignment in Mexico City. I had only spent a year in California after my New York City assignment before I packed my bags again. Why? I have always wanted to live in Mexico so when the opportunity came up, I took it. After all, this blog is called the "Calavera Chronicles." What better place to relaunch the blog than the land of the Calaveras…

Mexico City gets a bad rap
Everyone I told about my assignment asked if I was scared given Mexico City's reputation for high crime rates. My answer, "every place is dangerous if you are not careful." Careful you must be in el D.F. (Federal District), but it is not the Wild West people paint it to be. I love it here. It is a cross between the diversity of L.A and the culture and nightlife of NYC. The food is incredible. The cultural and historical sites are not to be missed. The traffic: horrible. The people: welcoming.

Mexico City is divided into neighborhoods or "colonias." They range from the poorest to the trendy Polanco, or hip Condesa, to the corporate Santa Fe, where I live. I am at the western boundary of el D.F. The location is extremely new and safe. It boosts one of the largest in-door malls in Latin America. My view, of course, is spectacular. My apartment sits on hill and the eastern walls are all glass so I over look all of Santa Fe, down to the skyscrapers of El Centro, to the mountains.

However, the colonias also divide the socially and economically. El DF is a city of extremes. For example, the riches man in the world lives here, as do some of the poorest. It is a city that breaks my heart, but also inspires me.

We are currently in the rain season so every day it rains. Not like in Seattle or LA, it will be sunny all day then will downpour for an hour than clear up again. The rain is cathartic, cleansing the city, sky and our hearts. One of my favorite pastimes is to watch the evening sky streak with lighting or watch the rain coat the city in a new shinny skin.

Mexico City gets a bad rap. Through the next couple of months, I hope to dispel many myths while sharing my varied experiences. Stay tuned.

Wait, I almost forgot, if any of you find yourself coming to the city, let me know, I am a great host and tour guide. Happy Tacos!